Journals
Monday,Jun 28 2004, 10:39:34 AMROBERT’S JOURNAL IN SURABAYA PRELUDE, AND...
ROBERT’S JOURNAL IN SURABAYA
PRELUDE, AND PARTS 1 - 3
AT LAST, IM HERE IN INDONESIA. I APPOLOGIZE FOR SENDING YOU THIS MESSAGE LATE COZ I DONT HAVE INTERNET IN MY OFC YET. AND THE CYBERCAFE IS FAR FROM THEN I AM STAYING. IM HERE IN THE CENTER OF THE CITY, LIKE MUCH OF MAKATI OR ORTIGAS. SO HERES THE STORY.
I LEFT NAIA 3:20 PM MONDAY. I WAS SEATED IN THE 25TH ROW AND THE TWO SEATS BESIDE ME WAS VACANT. I ARRIVED KOTA KINABALU IN SABAH MALAYSIA 5PM FOR THE IMMIGRATION. THEN I ARRIVED KUALA LUMPUR 820PM. DURING THE FLIGHT FROM K.K. TO K.L., THERE WAS A SUNSET ON OUR HORIZON UP TO 8PM. CHONG, YOURE RIGHT! I REMEMBERED YOUR STORY. AND I EXPERIENCED IT.
UPON MY ARRIVAL TO KL, I TOOK THE AEROTRAIN CONNECTING TO THE MAIN AIRPORT. ITS HUGE!! THE AIRPORT, THAT IS. THEN I TOOK THE KLIA (KL INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT) LRT FOR 35 RINGGIT MALAYSIAN TO KL SENTRAL STATION. IT TOOK ME EXACTLY 28MINS AS WHAT THEY SAY IN THEIR ADS.
I WAS SUPPOSE TO SMS (text) MY FILIPINO FRIEND TO MEET ME AT STARBUCKS IN THE KL SENTAL STATION BUT I RAN OUT OF LOAD!!! WELL, MY PREVIOUS MESSAGE TO HIM WAS THAT IF HE DONT RECEIVES ANY MESSAGE FROM ME, IT MEANS I RAN OUT OF LOAD OR THERES SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE NETWORK. BUT IM SURE THAT I WILL BE THERE BY 10PM. SO STARTED LOOKING AROUND FOR HIM. I ALMOST BOUGHT A LOCAL SIM OR A PHONECARD FOR CALLING HIM. HE FETCHED ME QUARTER BEFORE 10.
WE WENT TO HIS CONDO TO LEAVE MY BAG, WHICH IS RIGHT ACROSS THE STATION. WENT BACK TO THE SAME STATION BUT TOOK A RIDE IN ANOHTER RAILWAY GOING TO KL PETRONAS TOWERS. I WAS THERE!!!
THEN WE WENT TO ANOTHER STATION, A VERY FAMOUS INTERSECTION WITH A MALL AT THE CONER LIT10. THEN WALKED TO "BINTANG WALK", HAD NASI GORENG (fried rice) NEAR CHINA TOWN. NO SPICES.
WENT BACK HOME AT 1AM.
WOKE UP AT 6AM, ARRIVED KL AIRPORT 7AM. I WENT BACK TO THE SEPARATE AIRPORT GATES C1 TO 37. I WAS ABOUT TO ENTER THE GATE OF C2 WHEN THE LADY TOLD ME THAT BY BOARDING PASS IS G2 THAT IS BACK TO THE MAIN BUILDING. I TOOK THE AEROTRAIN AGAIN AND I WAS ABLE TO FIND MY GATE 20 MIN BEFORE BOARDING. PHEW!
THEN THERES A QUEUE FOR SECURITY CHECK UP. THERES THIS OLD GUY TRYING TO CUT FROM MY BACK. EVERYTIME WE STEP, WE BLOCK EACH OTHER. BUT HE STILL PROCEEDED FAR AHEAD OF ME TO CUT SOMEONE ELSE. BY THAT, I HAVE NOTICED THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE MALAYSIAN AND INDONESIAN.
THE PLANE WAS FULL. THEY ALL SPEAK THEIR LANGUAGE. THEY THOUGHT THAT IM LOCAL SO I SAID I CANT UNDERSTAND, THAT I AM A FILIPINO.
OH, YOU WOULDNT WANT TO KNOW WHAT HAPPEND TO ME UPON MY ARRIVAL. ITS HOT! HOT! HOT! THEN I QUEUED FOR THE LINE, STILL SOME ARE STILL TRYING TO CUT! TO CUT THE STORY SHORT, I CUED TWICE COZ I NEED TO FILL UP A FORM. THEN THEY BROUGHT ME TO A ROOM FOR NEW ADMITTANCE!!! I DONT HAVE TO FALL IN LINE AFTER ALL. GGRRRR!!!
SO I GOT MY BAGS, WENT OUT. I IMMEDIATELY SAW MY NEW BOSS, THE TN, WITH A LETTER ENVELOPE WITH MY NAME WRITTEN ON IT. THERES MY TN MANAGER WITH ANOTHER LC. THEY ARE HAPPY THAT I AM HERE AT LAST. WE WENT FOR A LUNCH. THEY ORDERED SEAFOOD. I WAS ABOUT TO TRY 1 WHOLE GREEN CHILI WHEN THEY SAID THAT I MUST NOT EAT IT. SO I TOOK A PIECE OF IT AND.. YOU KNOW.... WWWWHHHHAAAA!!!! MY EYEGLASSES GOT STEAM BECAUSE OF THE HEAT COMING OUT FROM MY EYES. SO I SAID I WILL TRY THE SPICES BIT BY BIT. WE CAME TO VISIT THE UNIVERSITY OF SURABAYA. ITS BIG.
FINALLY THEY BROUGHT ME TO MY NEW HOME IN JALAN (street) PRAPANCA. THIS WILL BE MY NEW HOME FOR THE NEXT 1.5 YEARS. ITS A BIG HOUSE TURNED INTO A PRIVATE SCHOOL. WHEN I ENTERED MY ROOM... OH.... MY... GOSH!!!! THEY GOT ME A BIG ROOM, ENOUGH FOR 12 PEOPLE, A QUEEN SIZE BED, AIRCON, CR, TABLE, 2 CABINETS. I LIVE WITH A HELPER BOY. HE CLEANS MY ROOM, WASHES MY CLOTHES AND IRON THEM. HE BOILS MY WATER FOR COFFEE IN THE MORNING, GIVE ME WATER IF IM EATING, CLEAN MY MESS. THIS IS LIFE!!!
IN THE KITCHEN, THERE ARE REFRIGETATOR, POTS & PANS, UTENSILS, AND TOASTER BREAD. I DONT HAVE GAS STOVE YET SO THEY TAKE ME OUT FOR LUNCH AND DINNER. PUT SUPPLIES IN MY REF. I EAT MOSTLY INDONESIAN FOOD!!!
THE SCHOOL WHERE I STAY IS NOT DONE YET. STILL NEEDS FINISHING TOUCHES. THE SECOND SCHOOL, WHICH IS 30 MINUTES AWAY FROM WHERE I STAY, IS A MANSION!!!
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PART 1
When I first arrived the Surabaya International Airport, it was soooo hot! The air is dry and the sun is scorching my skin. The system in the airport is not good as I have mentioned in my first email.
Then I saw the aiesecers Marshel (LCP) and Widya, and the TN Ms. Lina (owner of the school where I will work). They are Chinese. And the local people look like very much the same to a Filipino.
The road, ooohhh. If you think that the DPWH in the Philippines is the most corrupt department, there are no words to describe their ministry for the road. The road is like the moon or Mars and the 7-11! There are unpaved, craters, worn out street every corner, every where. When it rains—flood (and the air is still warm). Only the major loads are in good condition. Much less need to say. I think you get the picture already.
They use right hand drive vehicles so the lanes are on the left side. I tried driving twice. Its ok, not very confusing. Only that you MUST look at the side mirrors coz you never know what will appear in front of you--Motorcycles! There are HUNDRED OF THOUSANDS of motorbikes here. I am not exaggerating. First, they are cheaper, and then they can access the narrow roads, can take ahead on green light and cut in! Oh my God! When I was driving, they just come from nowhere then suddenly they are right in front of me, less than 1 foot from the headlight. They don’t mind occupying the lane because they don’t have a special lane for motorcycles, they won’t yield or slow down or step aside. You must over take if you can.
So if you think Filipino drivers are crazy, and you have heard of the saying that if you can drive in the Philippines, you can drive in any country? Think again. That is now a “misconception”.
They also have the seatbelt law and the helmet law. Helmets are being sold with different types and designs. But using the cellphone while driving… if you’re on the passenger’s seat and the driver is using the phone (calling or sms) while crossing an intersection or making a U-turn or over taking or changing lanes, you would wish that you wear a helmet inside the car with 3 seatbelts on and a cushion ready on your lap.
The local railway system is much better compare to Metro-Manila. They have the alarm and barrier, there are no squatters residing along the railway, its fast and convinient for people who hates the traffic jam during rush hour.
They have a version of the Phil Toyota Tamaraw FX, it is called the KIJANG. The isuzu here looks like the Revo. There are also Hyundai small car and nice Honda cars. Their local version of the Phil Jeepney is called MIKROLET. Its like the mini-van (smaller than L300) or a multi-cab or as big as a Fierra with the door at the side, not at the back end. I wouldn’t dare to wear a watch, fancy shoes, bring a cellphone, wallet, and a cap if I take a ride on it. There are only 3 taxi company that I can trust-- Surabaya taxi, Silver or Zebra. They are franchised and keep a reputation. They have Driver ID, a radio and a digital meter. The other taxis are self-owned so I don’t trust them. Flatrate is Rp2800 (Php19). A 10-minute ride or 6-km run is around Rp9000 (Php60). That is from my place to the nearest modern mall, the Plaza Tunjungan.
The city is divided into 5 districts: North, South, East, West and Central. Obviously the central is where most of the government offices are located – Governor’s House (Mayor of Surabaya) and another one for the whole East Java. Also includes the significant parks, 5-star hotels, malls, recreations (bowling alleys), small bars, and commercial establishments (like Avenida, Recto, Cartimar) and business offices like in Makati or Ortigas (minus the skyscrapers).
The north has the port, south has the airport and the road leading to southern provinces. The east and the West have major factories and industrial facilities. But the East will soon become the modern district. They are building roads, high rise condominiums, wider malls, town houses and more commercial places. This is where the rich people live. Much like of the Greenhils, Green Meadows, Corinthians or Dasmarinas Makati area. If you see the houses in the Villas, they are mansions and palaces!!! That is where my workplace is situated. The school is used to be a residential mansion with two lawns at the front and back, and a grand staircase inside. The first word that came out to my mouth when I entered it for the first time was, “WOW!”
The place where I live is situated 10 minutes near the central district and 20 minutes to my work place (with a car and without heavy traffic flow for both directions). Its also a house turned into a school. My room is approximately 5x5 sq. mt. Wide, with a queen sized-bed enough for 3-4 persons, an air con, and toilet. Next to it is the kitchen with gas stove and refrigerator. There is a stay-in all-around helper. Without him, I’ll be scared to death to live alone in a compound with 6 rooms, 2 garage and a lawn on the first level, and 4 rooms on the second floor!!! He is a muslim and he’s very nice. He cleans the entire area including my room and toilet, washes my dishes and pans, even my clothes then irons them. I can ask him to buy things for me from the marcket which is just 2 blocks away. This week I will go with him to buy my food supply. He teaches me the local language, even the Muslim prayer (in Arabic), while I teach him English. I may say that we are both good at it.
PART2
My boss, there are two actually. They have their own businesses. They have partnered in putting up this new language pre-school for ages 1 ½ to 4. They all have cars and two cellphones. During my first two weeks, I don’t have a gas stove yet, so they always take me out for lunch and dinner to fancy Indonesian and Chinese restaurants.
The food is great!!! Pretty much the same to Filipino food but with different name, and manner of cooking or presentation. They have the milkfish bangus (bandang), tilapya (mujahir), calamares, chicken curry, fried chicken (ayam goreng), fried rice with either chicken or seafood bits (nasi goreng), meatballs (bakso) like our beef meatball, fishball or squidball, tofu (tahu), kangkong, sweet pork tocino (cashiu), sticky rice suman (lampar), kropec (kropo), duck-not pecking (bebek), siomai, shanghai, chop suey (chap chai), ice halo-halo (es champur), fried rice with pork, chicken curry, vegetables, peanut brittle all together in one plate (nasi champur), chicken meat barbeque with peanut sauce (soto), a quarter fried chicken pressed on the traditional plate (ayam penyet), beef stew in black soup (rawon), sop buntot (ox tail soup) and different kinds of noodles, instant noodles, etc.
We eat everything with Sambal (grinded chili). Its like the soy sauce (toyo), catsup or mayonaise here. There are different kinds of sambal and different levels of spiciness. I like the sweet-chili one. My tongue can tolerate it now but I still sweat a lot as if someone poured a glass of water over my head. By the way, the catsup here is called Toma (tomato, no banana catsup) and the soya sauce toyo is Kecap Asin (E pronounced as “u” and C as “ch”) and fish sauce patis is Kechap Ikan (fish).
There are coca-cola products, local sodas with different flavors like juices, tea, coffee, tonic, then a young coconut in orange juice (kelapa muda jaru), and ice tea sweet (es thè manis). And there is one drink that I find amusing, it’s a mixture of condensed milk, strawberry syrup, local tonic soda (like sprite) and ice -- Susu Soda.
They also have Mc Donalds, KFC, Texas Chicken, A&W, Popeye’s, and some Australian, Japanese, American and European restaurants.
There are four malls here. But there are four more being constructed as of the moment. Lots of supermarket around here. Its their version of 7-11 but bigger, just like the average supermarket in the malls. The Tunjungan Plaza has 7 levels much like the Glorietta or Greenbelt. The Pakuwon Supermall is their SM Megamall with 3 levels only but longer in terms of floor length area. Then the Plaza Marina is like the SM Centerpoint in terms of size, but inside its like Greenhills with all the cellphone models and gadgets, a bowling alley, food court and a swimming pool and a disco bar inside the top floor. They say it’s the best pool but I haven’t seen it. That’s what they told me. Then there is this dry market called Pasar Turi where you can also find anything like a 4 level Tutuban shopping mall in Divisoria only without the aircon, floor tiles, nice lighting and painted walls. Another is Plaza Atum. Its cheap, its hot, its busy. Galaxy mall, I haven’t been there yet. Giant Hypermart is like Uniwide.
There are some of the Dutch influence here especially in architecturec (façade) of the business establishements. There are only a few business establishments with anything Dutch like there is one Holland Bakery, and a cheese bread named Bluder. They say that there are also Dutch words adopted into bahasa Indonesia like Netto (net), negatif (negative films), thè (tea), kolkas (fridge), ya (yes), etc . The rest, I have to know (maybe after a few weeks) coz they don’t know which words are adopted from the Dutch. Unlike us Filipinos, we know which are Spanish words adopted into the Filipino language. (By the way, we have a lot of similar words with similar meaning, only different in spelling like terong-talong, ngantuk-antok, pintu-pinto, masuk-pasok, etc. I will make a list of those words as well).
But the people here, they never mention anything about the Dutch colonization, participation in the government after their Independence and the influences in their lives. But they are grateful for some legacy like the sugar industry, rice production and farming, railways, some other industry like the insurance International Netherlands Group (ING) by Manulife. But they have almost totally eradicated the Dutch. They abandoned the offices and buildings used by the Dutch for during their governance. Some important establishments are still being used like the Majapahit Hotel (formerly the Dutch Governor’s house, and where the local people gathered infront and tore the blue stripe of the Netherlands flag and remained only the white and red stripe which is now the Indonesian flag).
I saw some Dutch students taking some courses from some of the universities. How did I know they were Dutch?? Eves-dropping. Hehehe! Because I know what language they were using. I can tell because I have had been with Liesbeth and her parents for 2 weeks so I know what a Dutch, Flemish, French or German language is. In another time, I was introduced to a girl, half Indonesian-half Dutch. Her face has the features of a European but her complexion is that of from Indonesia.
The people from aiesec and the university that I have met are very nice, friendly and accommodating. Almost all of them own a car, a can or a motorcycle. If they are Chinese, they are either Catholic or Protestant. If they are from here originally, majorities are muslim. Religious but both conservative and westernized. They don’t drink and smoke. They pray to their respective places of worship at the right time. Prayer rooms are provided inside the mall and in the campus.
The University is big, Ive been there only once, slightly larger than the size of DLSU (my second LC, eh? Hehe). They have an International Village for foreign students. But the aiesec office is just a cubicle (2x2 sq mt). But ey, they are more than 30 members LC, SN and Alumni alike. Too bad that most of them have to be home by 9pm. They don’t go out at night. But some goes to Java Jimmy’s (like Hard Rock Café) a bar inside Sheraton Hotel. Its soooo expensive. It’s the one and only best place to hang out for “Very rich” students and yuppies every Wed or Friday night. Colors is like “Decades” and Cingkur is like “Cowboy Grill”. There are only very few bars around and far from each other. You need a car to get there. And some bars don’t serve alcoholic drinks at all!!!
I miss San Mig Light!!! Last Saturday we went to China town Kya-Kya where they closed the 6 blocks of one street every night. There are food stands along both sides of the street and in the middle are the chairs and tables. All the food and local drinks look great. But there are no beers!!! Drinking is not allowed in open areas (it’s a muslim country). In the supermarket, they have locally made San Miguel beer but I haven’t tasted it yet. The famous local beer is the Bintang (Star). The taste is ok but its heavy in your stomach. Bali Hai Pale Pilsen is better than Bali Hai Draft. But both are expensive (Rp7000 to 8500 = Php 46 to 56) just one bottle. Carlsberg and Buwiser is up to the moon… (Rp 16,500 = Php 110) one bottle. So, its either I buy Bali Hai from the supermarket seldomly or take Bintang then exercise more frequently. Hhhmm… all bars serve only Bintang. I think you already know my decision. I cant live without it. Well, at least two bottles a week would be fine… I hope.
Cigarettes are being sold like pancakes or isaw. There are no walking vendors, only stalls along the sidewalk. The local cigarettes are called Kretek. Are you familiar with Gudang Garam, right? That kretek with popping sound and a sweet taste on the butt. Im sorry to say that that popping sound is not marijuana. There is none actually. That is the type of a strong tobacco that’s why you feel lightheaded because you are experiencing Hypoxia (lack of oxygen in the brain). I have run out of the Marlboro Lights menthol which I took with me from Manila. Those 10 packs are now history. Well they have it here as well, its Rp7700 in the supermarket but its only Rp6300 (Php41) per pack in the market. But it is still expensive for me!!! Twice the price of a single pack in Manila. So it either I will shift to a local menthol cigarette or cut down smoking. Again, I think you already know my decision. Say it with me… I .. CANT… LIVE… WITHOUT… IT!
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PART 3
APRIL 5, MONDAY
I started cooking at home. I got a stove and cooking utensils. I hate the cabinet coz there are cockroaches! I have to wash them before using it. I still cook Filipino dish, I share it with my friend at home, the muslim helper, except the pork, of course. His name is Fakur. We speak the Indonesian language. He asks me the English word for the objects and verbs then I tell him in a complete sentence. We are getting along very well. In the morning, he boils me water for my coffee, he cleans my room while I exercise and cook, and then he washes my dishes. I can ask him to fix or buy anything, even to wash my clothes and iron them. I don’t oblige him to do it (my boss said that he is being paid to do it). So in return, I share all my food and eat on the same table with him. We are having conversations at the dinner table about anything like our plans for the next day, our culture, religion, language, our families (he is married and his wife is in Malang), and our jobs.
He asked me once if I have a problem with him coz he is a muslim, I said no. We have Filipino muslims, I have studied Islam in the past and I know the prayer in Islam. I just need to review it and he teaches me the correct pronunciation.
APRIL 7, WEDNESDAY
After my first two weeks of stay, I almost ran out of money. I need to change another $100 bill. When I tried to compute for all my expenses (good thing I have been keeping all the receipts), its Rupia 1.3 Million!!!! (Php 8,000+++)
I said I have spent a lot! So enough of buying clothes even if it is discounted, and going to the supermarket for the next 3 weeks. I will just buy my stuff from the wet/dry market. No beers and cut down smoking and no international calls for a while. Texting (sms) is a bit expensive Rp 350 (Php2.5)/ message sent, but for International Texting, is still Rp350, its cheap compare to the Philippines which is Php15. But calling to the Phil is much expensive, almost Rp10000 (Php80)/ minute. A Rp 50,000 Voucher (call/text card or we call it “Pulsa”) is around 5 min only. I think I have to use a “Call card” which has the lowest Intl call rate.
So now I have to stretch my budget till the end of this month.
APRIL 9, HOLY FRIDAY
Holy week is also holiday in Surabaya to respect the Catholic and Protestant religions. Surabaya is a melting pot of people, culture and religion. So I asked some of the muslim aiesecers to take me out of town. We went to Tretes, about 60 km south, and its like Baguio City, only that its 1,500 m above sea level. The air is a bit cooler than Surabaya, with a lot of Villas, cottages and rooms for rent to spend the day for a picnic, etc.
Then we went on trekking the Kakek Bodo Waterfalls. Its high, its cold, too bad the water is shallow and there was a lot of people so cant take of my shirt and try the water. So, we just took some pictures and dip our feet in the water.
Next we proceed 10 km more to Taman Safari Indonesia (next to Tretes, before Malang). Taman means “PARK” (they put the adverb or adjective before the noun like Sekarang Buka = Opening Soon; and Air Minuman = Drinking Water). I saw different animals from different continents like lion, tiger, bear, jaguar, elephant, camel, etc. Much like of a Jurassic park where you drive in your vehicle but you have to stay inside your car. I even touched a camel’s nose! Then a tamer shoved it off. Too bad we have to head back home by 3pm. I haven’t got the chance to go the Recreational Park and the Baby animal Park where I could have had cuddled a baby tiger. I’ll just come back there next time. I will take one of you whoever come here first. Hehehe!