Thursday,Dec 30 2004, 01:56:48 AMPART 59: WALI SONGO – 9 JAVANESE MOSLEM...

PART 59: WALI SONGO – 9 JAVANESE MOSLEM SAINTS

 

 

DECEMBER 17, MONDAY

 

            The husband of the owner of the school was kind to provide us with a transportation and offered 2 of his friends to accompany us for they know the roads better than us and told us stories about the Wali Songo.

 

 

Surabaya:

SUNAN AMPEL (Raden Achmad Rachmatulloh) is the son of Ibrahim Al Ghozi Jammaluddin Husein. He came to Java from Cambodia together with his father and brother to replace Maulana Malik Ibrahim in 1419. The Majapahit king gave him the title Raden Susuhunan because he came from the aristocrat family and Sunan because of his good deeds.

 

**Side trip**

**HOK AN KIONG Temple in Surabaya’s China town. This temple was built by Chinese merchants in the 18^th century for Mazu, patron goddess of sailors.

 

**KAMPUNG ARAB (Arab community) around the Ampel Mosque.

 

 

Gresik: 20 km North-east of Surabaya

MAULANA MALIK IBRAHIM was one of he earliest missionaries in Java from Persia and was buried with his family in Desa Candipuro in 1419. He was replaced by Sunan Ampel.

 

**Side trip**

**TAMAN MAKAM PALAHWAN (Heroes' Cemetery Park)

**MASJID AGUNG GRESIK (Gresik Grand Mosque)

 

 

Giri:

SUNAN GIRI’s tomb is a popular pilgrimage site, located in an ancient Muslim heroes’ cemetery on a hill guarded by two Hindu guardian statues in the town of Giri, 3 km south of Gresik. To approach his tomb, there are long concrete steps infested with beggars and shops.

 

 

Paciran:

SUNAN DRAJAD (Raden Qosim) was Sunan Ampel’s second son. He was highly respected for his social activity. His words of wisdom reflected this charitable nature: “Give cloth to the naked person, give food to the hungry person, and give a stick to one whose road is slippery”. The entrance and front panels of the main tomb are greatly ornamented and carved in a distinctive fashion. Close to the tomb is a small museum displaying fragments of gamelan (Javanese musical instruments), Chinese wares and drum.

 

 

SUNAN SENDANG DUWUR is located in the Maharani cave. We didn’t go inside, just passed by the main road leading to the cave.

 

**Side trip**

**WISATA BAHARI LAMONGAN (Lamongan Theme Park and Ocean World)

 

 

Tuban: 98 km from Surabaya

 

SUNAN BONANG (Raden Makdum Ibrahim) was the eldest son of Sunan Ampel. It is said that Sunan Bonang did not marry and left no descendants, thus he devoted his life to spreading the religious message of Islam. He also assisted in constructing the Masjid Agung in Demak. His tomb is unique in that ancient porcelain Arabic and Chinese disks were found adhered to the walls.

 

**Side trip**

**JAMI MOSQUE was built in 1894 AD in the Persian style.

**TJOE LING KIONG is a Confucius temple.

**We had late lunch in this town and I tried the crab curry which is so spicy even for the two elderly.

 

 

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Back in Central Java’s northern coast (see Part 49), I have visited:

SUNAN KALIJAGA’s Grand Mosque in Demak

SUNAN KUDUS in Kudus town

 

Too bad SUNAN MURIA is still far from Kudus and its located on the foot of Mount Muria and

SUNAN DUNONGJATI is located in West Java. I miss the chance to see these 2 saints.

 

Therefore, I have visited 7 of the 9 Sunans.

 

Thursday,Dec 30 2004, 01:54:35 AMPART 58: “COLD” CHRISTMAS DECEMBER 24,...

PART 58: “COLD” CHRISTMAS

 

 

DECEMBER 24, FRIDAY

 

            I went to Malang for Christmas. There was a miscommunication between Rico and Bagus, so both of them went to the bus station to pick me up. Hehehe. Sweet!

 

            Bagus and I had dinner first, and then Rico and I went to attend the Holy Mass in a Church buil by the Dutch. Just across is another Catholic church - the first church built in Malang (20 meters beside it is a mosque).

 

-    I dont see the colorful Christmas lights, trees and stars on the street

-    I dont hear carolers singing on the street

-    I dont smell ‘bibingka’ and ‘puto bungbong’ (Filipino rice cakes & pudding)

-    I dont feel the “Spirit of Christmas” as compare to my country

-    I still see the people happy inside the church

-    but I see cops securing the churches from any misfortunes that might happen

 

            At midnight, its just me and Rico drinking beer while talking stuff (Im suppose to be dining table with my family for ‘Noche Buena’). After which, I went to bed.

 

 

 

DECEMBER 25, SATURDAY

 

            Since we don’t have much to do, we woke up late. I asked Rico if he can take me to TUMPANG, 25 km east of Malang to see the last 2 temples that I haven’t been to in this former SINGOSARI KINGDOM. It was raining from the time we left Malang until we got back in the afternoon. I drove the motorcycle going back to Malang but my hands were cold and I couldn’t see the road, so we have to take a rest until the rain stops.

 

JAGO or JAJAGU TEMPLE was dedicated to a form of Tantric Buddhism and was erected to honor King Wisnuwardhana of the Singosari Kingdom who died in the mid-13^th century. The temple has a long sequence of narrative relief carved in the so-called wayang-style based on Jataka, the Ramayana, and other unidentified legends.

 

KIDAL TEMPLE was built to honor Anusapati, the Singosari king who died in 1290 AD. The base is decorated with statues of the mythical Garuda bird on three sides. On the north he is carrying a goddess, maybe Dewi Sri; on the east he holds a kendi or water jar, probably a reference to the story in which he had to find the elixir of immortality to ransom his mother from slavery; on the south side Garuda is carrying a snake.

 

 

            In the evening, I was joined by Wily, Dito and Bagus to have a dinner outside. It was raining earlier so there are only a few people on the streets. After they went home, I just watched t.v. till late.

 

 

 

DECEMBER 26, SUNDAY

 

            Bagus took me to Marshel’s place but I was late. The family went out already for lunch. Then he took me to his friends where we had ‘brunch’ before he took me to Zilva’s place. She offered me to visit her with Rico but Rico couldn’t leave the house. Since nobody from Zilva’s place can take me out back to the main road and Bagus has to leave back home, we just dropped by for only 5 minutes then Bagus took me where I could ride to the bus station.

            Back to Surabaya, Fadil’s brother, Ari, picked me up from the bus station and took me their place coz tomorrow morning we are leaving early to visit the graves of the 5 of the Wali Songo (Nine Saints) of Javanese Moslem.

 

Thursday,Dec 23 2004, 06:36:10 AMPART 57: MOJOKERTO – Majapahit Kingdom...

PART 57: MOJOKERTO – Majapahit Kingdom Legacy

 

 

DECEMBER 19, SUNDAY

 

            I asked Fadil if he can take me Mojokerto together with some of the students and teachers from Al Muslim. The owner of the school was so kind to provide us with transportation and a driver.

 

 

TROWULAN, 35 km from Surabaya, was the site of Java’s most powerful kingdom - Majapahit. Founded in the late 13th century, its famous patih or Prime Minister, GAJAH MADA, claimed suzerainty over an area larger than modern Indonesia.

 

 

Trowulan Site Museum was a large collection of objects collected from the area, including stones and terracotta statues, local earthenware pottery, keris, and Chinese porcelain. The ancient city was extensive, and major monuments are scattered over an area of several square kilometers.

 

 

SEGARAN POOL (Kolam Segaran) is found nearby where legend tells of a king disposing of golden dishes to the surprise of his guests as an ostentatious display of wealth.

 

 

PENDOPO AGUNG (Grand Pavilion) is believed to be the site of the main building of Majapahit Palace and now houses many artifacts discovered in 1970s.

 

 

BAJANG RATU TEMPLE, a brick gateway 22 meters high decorated with narrative relief from the Ramayana and other stories, has undergone a complete restoration and completed in 1991.

The gateway has within its entrance, illustrations of a beautiful giant head, believed to date from the mid 14th century. This temple was built for the memory of Jayanegara, and was mentioned in Negarakertagama book.

 

 

TIKUS TEMPLE is believed to be the site of the ritual bathing pool of the royal family. It has makara-shaped stone spouts and a brick motif symbolizing Mt. Semeru. In other books, it is shaped like Mt. Mahameru in India.

            Made in 13th or 14th century, the temple was completely covered by ground after the fall of the kingdom. Rat houses were found during the excavation in 1914 that is where the name TIKUS (rat) came from.

 

 

BRAHU TEMPLE can be found 10 minutes drive northwest of Tikus Temple. The red brick temple is the largest standing structure remaining from Majapahit.

            Brahu came from the word “abu” means “ash” and is believed to contain the cremation remains of King Brawijaya.

 

 

 

--------------------------------------

The BRANTAS VALLEY

 

            The Brantas River has been a vital trade and communication route since the earliest period of Java’s recorded history. Hundred of years before Islam, Hindu-Buddhist kings were already diverting the waters of the Brantas to develop elaborate irrigation systems. Around the complex of active volcanoes, Mt. Arjuna, Kawi and Kelud, flourished important ancient civilizations, and the area is rich with archeological sites dating from the 8^th to 15^th centuries - a “golden age” of Hindu-Javanese art and culture.

 

 

Political power shifted to East Java:

-   following the sudden decline of Central Java’s MATARAM Kingdom in the early 10^th century;

-   a powerful ruler named SINDOK then established a capital southwest of present-day Surabaya

-   KEDIRI in the western Brantas Valley briefly became the island’s dominant kingdom in the earl 11^th century

-   power shifted again to SINGOSARI in the eastern Brantas basin in 13^th century (1222)

-   this move was merely a prelude to the rise of MAJAPAHIT KINGDOM in the northern part of the valley at the close of 13^th century

 

 

Thursday,Dec 23 2004, 06:18:52 AMPART 56: PHILIPPINE EXHIBIT DECEMBER 13 –...

PART 56: PHILIPPINE EXHIBIT

 

 

DECEMBER 13 – 17, MONDAY to FRIDAY

 

 

            The Social Studies teacher asked me if I can help her with her lectures about South East Asia. I said I can make an exhibit in my office about Malaysia and the Philippines. I have magazines, newspaper clippings, maps, photos and a power point presentation. But the power point is in English, so I asked the son of the school owner to translate it in Indonesia.

 

            I shall make a short example of my lecture. And for my Indonesian friends, here is a small information about my country:

 

 

Filipina adalah 3 Daerah Besar: Luzon, Visayas dan Mindanao

Tarus di pembagi lagi ke daerah-daerah kecil: Daerah 1 sampai 13

Setiap Dearah adalah provinsi-provinsi

 

Ibukota: Metro-Manila

Itu bukan cuma satu kota.

Adalah kota-kota besar (cities) dan kota-kota kecil (municipalities)

U$D 1 = Philippine Peso 56 = Rupia 9,200

 

Banera Filipina, artinya:

Biru – damai

Merah – perang

Putih – suci

3 bintang – 3 daerah besar

8 sinar matahari – 8 provinsi-provinsi yang perkelahian yaitu orang Espanyol

Jika ada perang menetang orang asing, kami terbalik bandera untuk merah yang di atas.

 

-   300,000 tahun yg lalu, terjadi migrasi dari daratan utama dan Kalimantan melalui jembatan daratan

-   Pada tahun 500 S.M. (B.C.) terdapat catatan perdagangan dengan sesama bangsa asia seperti orang Hindu dari Jawa dan Sumatra

 

-   (1521) Ferdinand Magellan menemukan daratan baru dan menamainya “Kepulauan de San Lazaro”

 

-   (1564) Miguel Lopez de Legaspi dikirim untuk menjajah kepulauan dimulai dari Cebu kemudian membangun Manila City

 

-   Roy Lopez Villalobos memberikan nama baru “Felipinas” sebagai penghormatan kepada putra mahkota Spanyol Philip II

 

JOSE PROTACIO RIZAL (Palahwan Nasional)

Dokter, Negarawan, Guru, Pelukis, Pemahat, and Penulis buku yg berjudul “Noli Me Tangere” (Jangan Sentuh Saya)  dan “El Filibusterismo” tentang bangsa spanyol yang  kejam.

 

Andres Bonifacio

Memimpin kelompok pemberontak di berbagai yang 8 propinsi

 

Jenderal Emilio Aguinaldo

Menjadi Presiden Filipina Pertama, Proklamator Kemerdekaan, dan membangun Republik Filipina pada 1899 dengan bantuan orang Amerika dan Andres Bonifacio.

 

-   (1972) Ferdinand Marcos, Presiden terpilih pertama, memberlakukan darurat sipil sebagai respon atas yang disebut dengan “pemberontakan yang konsisten” menjalankan pemerintahan diktator, dan mundur setelah 8 tahun

 

-   (1983) mantan Senator Benigno Aquino Jr. membentuk Koalisi anti-Marcos, dibunuh di bandara udara ketika kembali dari pengasingan di Amerika

 

-    Corazon C. Aquino, janda Benigno, menjadi presiden pada 1986

 

-   Marcos tinggal di Malacañang dan kemudian dijungkalkan oleh PEOPLE POWER (KEKUATAN RAKYAT) setelah 20 tahun berkuasa

 

-   Marcos diberi tempat perlindungan di Hawaii tempat dimana dia meninggal

 

 

Samut-Sari (Gado-Gado):

Carabao (Kerbau)

Nipa Hut (Gubuk)

Calesa (Dokar/kereta kuda)

Tarsier - hewan primata terkecil

Barong - Pakaian Nasional

Jeepney - Raja Jalanan (King of the Road) seperti ‘bemo’

Toyota Tamaraw FX - sebagai taxi modern (Toyota Kijang)

Tricycle - sepeda motor gandengan samping (sidecar) seperti ‘bajaj’

 

 

 

Special thanks to:

 

Chong/ Darrren from Malaysia (now in Poland) for giving me the maps and magazines before I left for Indonesia.

 

Ari, for translating my power point presentation and the LCD projector.

 

Al Muslim Social Science teachers, School Principal and the proprietress for giving me a chance to represent my country to the young students.

 

Monday,Dec 20 2004, 09:28:34 AMPART 55: TENGGER HIGHLANDS At the center of...

PART 55: TENGGER HIGHLANDS

 

 

            At the center of this upland massif lies an ancient caldera measuring 10 km in diameter – sheer, grass-covered cliffs surrounding a black, windswept “sea of sand”. Four smaller peaks rise 300 – 400 meters from the center of this crater floor; the one on the left is a smoldering mound of cinder and ash that erupts every few years. This is BROMO.

 

            Java’s highest peak, Mount SEMERU (3,676 meters), looms over this desolate lunar landscape just 20 km to the south. An active volcano, Semeru erupted violently in 1983, wiping out two villages in its southern slopes. Smokes come out from its mouth oftenly.

 

            Local myths affirm that Bromo is the home of the Tengger’s most important guardian diety – an ancestral spirit named JOKO SEGER. He is thought to have given his life for the well-being of his descendants, when he was snatched from his parents’ arms as the fled the angry volcano. Fittingly, he is seen as both a benevolent provider and a fearsome destroyer.

 

 

---------------------

TENGGERESE

 

            The upper slopes of this highland massif are home to some 40,000 people – the TENGGER JAVANESE – who are the only group on the island to have preserved a Hindu priesthood since the collapse of the Hindu-Buddhist kingdom of Majapahit about five centuries ago. After Islam swept Java, Majapahit’s aristocrats and priests took flight to the small Hindu principality of Blambangan at Java’s far eastern tip, and to neighboring Bali. Many commoners are said to have sought refuge in the Tengger highlands.

 

            While the liturgies of Tengger commoner priests recognize Siva as the supreme deity – with Brahma, Visnu, Mahadewa and Iswara as his associates – many Tengger traditions reflect local beliefs. This is evident in the ceremony held each year during the last month (Kasodo) of the Tengger calendar, when the faithful make a ritual offering to Joko Seger in Bromo.

 

 

----------------------------

KASODO FESTIVAL

 

            Thousands assemble in the sand flats beneath Mt. Bromo at midnight in the middle of this month, most bearing small offerings of vegetables, flowers, money, or even live chickens. The 28 priests of the Tengger region begin the rite by burning incense, anointing the assembled offerings, and invoking Siva and other guardian deities. The throngs push their way up Mt. Bromo to throw the offerings into the caldera, ensuring the welfare in the coming year.

            The Tenggerese ask for blessing from the supreme god, Hyang Widi Wasa, followed by a classical ballet performance. The story recounts the legend of Roro Anteng and Jaka Seger and is performed at the open theater in the village of Ngadisari.

 

                        The Legend of Kasada Ceremony

           

            According to legend, the Kasado ceremony dates back to the time of the Majapahit Kingdom, during the reign of KING BRAWIJAYA. The queen gave birth to a daughter named RARA ANTENG who married JOKO SEGER, a young man from the Brahma Caste.

 

These two were among those who fled eastward from Majapahit as the religion of Islam expanded into Java during the 15^th century. Settling in the Tenger range, Joko Seger and Rara Anteng ruled the region jointly under the title Purbawisesa Mangkural Ing Tengger.

 

The word ‘Tengger’ itself is said to have been derived from a combination of the last syllables of the two rulers names: “Teng” and “Ger”. Another meaning is derived from “Tenggering Budi Luhur”, meaning eternal peace and high morality.

 

For some years, the region flourished under their leadership, yet the king and queen were unhappy for they had no children. The decided therefore, to climb to the top of Mt. Bromo to pray for help. Moved by the depth of their faith, the god of Mr. Bromo assured them of offspring, but with the condition that the youngest child must be sacrificed into the crater of the volcano.

 

After giving birth to 25 children, the time came for Roro Anteng to keep her promise. Since they were reluctant however, they were threatened with catastrophe. At last, they were forced to comply with the god’s wishes and their 25^th child, named KESUMA, was thrown into the crater. As the child was sacrificed, a voice was heard to echo “My beloved brothers and sisters, I have been sacrifice b our parents to appear before Hyang Widi. Be in peace and live prosperously, never forgetting to worship. As a reminder, I ask you to perform annual ceremony on the 14^th day of Kesada at the time of the half moon to bring an offering of crops and livestock”.

 

 

-------------------------

VISITING BROMO

 

One can take the route from Probolinggo - Sakapura - Ngadisari (altitude 1950 meters).

Or take the one which is more difficult, the one which I took, Pasuruan - Tosati - Wonokitri - Penanjakan.

 

TOSARI was one of Java’s most popular hill stations during Dutch colonial times, and thought the old hostelries were destroyed during the revolution; new hotels are now being built here.

 

WONOKITRI has cheaper accommodations. Along the way you will see farmers bringing vegetables to market. The valleys are much narrower and deeper here than in Ngadisari, and the neatly cultivated hillsides are covered with brightly painted houses.

            Wonokriti has won government awards for its development programs, and the cleanliness of the village is impressive. The local Balinese-style temple was one of the first to be built in the Tenger highlands in the 1970s, when the population “rediscovered” its religious ties with Hindu Bali.

 

PENANJAKAN (“The Promontory”), with an altitude of 2775 meters, offers a breathtaking view. From this vantage point high above the Bromo crater, the full girth of Mt. Semeru is visible 30 km to the south. Ancient Javanese Hindus believed this Pananjakan – Bromo - Semeru axis to be the center of the world; from Penanjakan you will understand why.

 

 

My journey to Bromo is an unforgettable experience that offered cool respite from the tropical heat and the urban bustle of the lowland. Plus I got the chance to prove myself that I can travel without any help from friends. BERANI (brave)!!!

 

 

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