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Monday,Dec 20 2004, 09:28:34 AMPART 55: TENGGER HIGHLANDS At the center of...

PART 55: TENGGER HIGHLANDS

 

 

            At the center of this upland massif lies an ancient caldera measuring 10 km in diameter – sheer, grass-covered cliffs surrounding a black, windswept “sea of sand”. Four smaller peaks rise 300 – 400 meters from the center of this crater floor; the one on the left is a smoldering mound of cinder and ash that erupts every few years. This is BROMO.

 

            Java’s highest peak, Mount SEMERU (3,676 meters), looms over this desolate lunar landscape just 20 km to the south. An active volcano, Semeru erupted violently in 1983, wiping out two villages in its southern slopes. Smokes come out from its mouth oftenly.

 

            Local myths affirm that Bromo is the home of the Tengger’s most important guardian diety – an ancestral spirit named JOKO SEGER. He is thought to have given his life for the well-being of his descendants, when he was snatched from his parents’ arms as the fled the angry volcano. Fittingly, he is seen as both a benevolent provider and a fearsome destroyer.

 

 

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TENGGERESE

 

            The upper slopes of this highland massif are home to some 40,000 people – the TENGGER JAVANESE – who are the only group on the island to have preserved a Hindu priesthood since the collapse of the Hindu-Buddhist kingdom of Majapahit about five centuries ago. After Islam swept Java, Majapahit’s aristocrats and priests took flight to the small Hindu principality of Blambangan at Java’s far eastern tip, and to neighboring Bali. Many commoners are said to have sought refuge in the Tengger highlands.

 

            While the liturgies of Tengger commoner priests recognize Siva as the supreme deity – with Brahma, Visnu, Mahadewa and Iswara as his associates – many Tengger traditions reflect local beliefs. This is evident in the ceremony held each year during the last month (Kasodo) of the Tengger calendar, when the faithful make a ritual offering to Joko Seger in Bromo.

 

 

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KASODO FESTIVAL

 

            Thousands assemble in the sand flats beneath Mt. Bromo at midnight in the middle of this month, most bearing small offerings of vegetables, flowers, money, or even live chickens. The 28 priests of the Tengger region begin the rite by burning incense, anointing the assembled offerings, and invoking Siva and other guardian deities. The throngs push their way up Mt. Bromo to throw the offerings into the caldera, ensuring the welfare in the coming year.

            The Tenggerese ask for blessing from the supreme god, Hyang Widi Wasa, followed by a classical ballet performance. The story recounts the legend of Roro Anteng and Jaka Seger and is performed at the open theater in the village of Ngadisari.

 

                        The Legend of Kasada Ceremony

           

            According to legend, the Kasado ceremony dates back to the time of the Majapahit Kingdom, during the reign of KING BRAWIJAYA. The queen gave birth to a daughter named RARA ANTENG who married JOKO SEGER, a young man from the Brahma Caste.

 

These two were among those who fled eastward from Majapahit as the religion of Islam expanded into Java during the 15th century. Settling in the Tenger range, Joko Seger and Rara Anteng ruled the region jointly under the title Purbawisesa Mangkural Ing Tengger.

 

The word ‘Tengger’ itself is said to have been derived from a combination of the last syllables of the two rulers names: “Teng” and “Ger”. Another meaning is derived from “Tenggering Budi Luhur”, meaning eternal peace and high morality.

 

For some years, the region flourished under their leadership, yet the king and queen were unhappy for they had no children. The decided therefore, to climb to the top of Mt. Bromo to pray for help. Moved by the depth of their faith, the god of Mr. Bromo assured them of offspring, but with the condition that the youngest child must be sacrificed into the crater of the volcano.

 

After giving birth to 25 children, the time came for Roro Anteng to keep her promise. Since they were reluctant however, they were threatened with catastrophe. At last, they were forced to comply with the god’s wishes and their 25th child, named KESUMA, was thrown into the crater. As the child was sacrificed, a voice was heard to echo “My beloved brothers and sisters, I have been sacrifice b our parents to appear before Hyang Widi. Be in peace and live prosperously, never forgetting to worship. As a reminder, I ask you to perform annual ceremony on the 14th day of Kesada at the time of the half moon to bring an offering of crops and livestock”.

 

 

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VISITING BROMO

 

One can take the route from Probolinggo - Sakapura - Ngadisari (altitude 1950 meters).

Or take the one which is more difficult, the one which I took, Pasuruan - Tosati - Wonokitri - Penanjakan.

 

TOSARI was one of Java’s most popular hill stations during Dutch colonial times, and thought the old hostelries were destroyed during the revolution; new hotels are now being built here.

 

WONOKITRI has cheaper accommodations. Along the way you will see farmers bringing vegetables to market. The valleys are much narrower and deeper here than in Ngadisari, and the neatly cultivated hillsides are covered with brightly painted houses.

            Wonokriti has won government awards for its development programs, and the cleanliness of the village is impressive. The local Balinese-style temple was one of the first to be built in the Tenger highlands in the 1970s, when the population “rediscovered” its religious ties with Hindu Bali.

 

PENANJAKAN (“The Promontory”), with an altitude of 2775 meters, offers a breathtaking view. From this vantage point high above the Bromo crater, the full girth of Mt. Semeru is visible 30 km to the south. Ancient Javanese Hindus believed this Pananjakan – Bromo - Semeru axis to be the center of the world; from Penanjakan you will understand why.

 

 

My journey to Bromo is an unforgettable experience that offered cool respite from the tropical heat and the urban bustle of the lowland. Plus I got the chance to prove myself that I can travel without any help from friends. BERANI (brave)!!!

 

 

Monday,Dec 20 2004, 09:26:55 AMPART 54: MT. BROMO – I went alone DECEMBER...

PART 54: MT. BROMO – I went alone

DECEMBER 11, SATURDAY

I gave a lecture speech to teachers for the third time. After that, I met with the Elementary and High School Science Teachers for future planning and handed over the books which I compiled as their Handout Supplement for teaching academics, Science Club and Science Fair. ...

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Monday,Dec 20 2004, 09:25:41 AMPART 53: AL MUSLIM: HALAL BI HALAL, MALANG:...

PART 53: AL MUSLIM: HALAL BI HALAL,

MALANG: BAND CONCERT & BADUT TEMPLE

DECEMBER 4, SATURDAY ...

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Monday,Dec 20 2004, 09:21:32 AMPART 52: BERT, YOU ARE CRAZY!! NOVEMBER 22

PART 52: BERT, YOU ARE CRAZY!!

NOVEMBER 22 – 26

Just as usual. Here are some pics of the students in Al Muslim. ...

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Wednesday,Dec 15 2004, 07:51:54 AMPART 51: BACK TO REALITY. I WANT MY MOMMY! NO

PART 51: BACK TO REALITY. I WANT MY MOMMY!

NOVEMBER 22, MONDAY

I thought today was the last day of the holiday. Everybody went back to school, although half-day. I just stayed home; cleaned my room, washed my laundry, checked emails and retired early. But I cannot sleep. All the happenings were still fresh in my memory. I miss everybody. ...

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